Inside the Tea Industry with Sharyn Johnston: K-Tea & the Evolution of Korean Tea

inside the tea industry sharyn johnston
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If you haven’t experienced Korean tea or visited Korea as a tourist destination, then this is a must.

I have just returned from taking a small group on a whirlwind tour of Korea, visiting miles of some of the most beautiful tea fields you will ever see, meeting tea farmers, tasting so many amazing teas, visiting ceramic artists, and generally being immersed in Korean tea culture.

We also handmade our own green tea and fermented teas; made Korean tea treats, which are traditionally served with tea; and practiced the basics of tea ceremony at the Myung Won Cultural Foundation.

Korea is relatively unknown in the production of green tea mainly because of limited production, competition from China and Japan, and its small-scale artisanal supply chains.

I was lucky to be invited to Korea to firstly judge and then back to teach blending over ten years ago.

I was totally taken away by the quality of the tea, the incredible flavors and varieties, as well as the passion of the small farmers and their dedication to perfection.

Not only is the green tea outstanding, but so is the black tea and other unique varieties they make in small batches, including oolongs and a rare, fermented tea called Dokcha. What is relatively unknown is the quality of their green tea powder (matcha), which is shade grown and mostly stone milled, known as "Garucha" and produced in Korea.

Behind the tea lies a history of beautiful ceramics, tea ceremonies, and a tea culture that is unlike no other.

korean tea
Practicing the Korean tea ceremony.

Recently I was invited to present on Global Trends in Tea Culture at the World Tea Forum at the K-Tea expo organized by the Myung Won Cultural Foundation in Seoul.

The Foundation carries on the legacy of the pioneer of Korean Tea Culture, Myung Won Kim Mi-Hee, as the head-family of the Korean traditional tea ceremony. It is a Korean government recognized tea and tea culture educational institution for Korean tea professionals and tea masters. 

This buzzing tea expo was filled with young people experiencing their own Korean teas and the Korean tea culture. The expo has evolved over the years, and while still offering the traditions of Korean tea culture, it is now showcasing some of the latest trends in tea.

The vibrant musical opening was a dynamic blend of performers, and later, we were able to watch the Royal Tea Ceremony being performed. This blend of culture is so important to the future of tea as well as understanding its history and embracing it, but moving with the times.

Many young people I spoke to are now avid tea drinkers as well as coffee drinkers. For a strong specialty coffee dominated landscape in Korea, this was new and showed the potential for the specialty coffee world in other countries to open their doors to specialty teas.

korean tea
Many young people in Korea are now avid tea drinkers.

The creative tea blends, the pure Korean teas, the state-of-the-art trends in packaging, and the outstanding, bold ceramics, all helped create a new interest for younger people to have a relationship with tea.

Korea has a history of tea culture spanning over 1800 years, and although long, it was interrupted by historical events. It is intertwined with religion, culture, and social change. Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism have had a great influence on the Korean tea culture.

Korean tea ceremonies have developed over this period of time including the Royal Court Tea Ceremony, the Scholars Tea Ceremony, the guest’s tea ceremony, and the Ancestral Rites ceremony.

The Goryeo Dynasty marked the golden age of Korean tea culture and helped inspire the advances in unique pottery, including celadon.

Today, Korean tea has gained international recognition for its quality and taste, and the Korean tea ceremony continues as a cultural tradition.

ceramic
Korean ceramic artist GiJin Song.

 

Main Tea Growing Areas

The four main tea growing areas in Korea are:

  1. Boseong
  2. Hadong
  3. Jeonnam
  4. Jeju Island

Boseong

Boseong is the largest of the tea-growing areas. The first image of Boseong is the picture-perfect fields of green tea bushes, which appear to look like deep green velvet.

Boseong is located at a higher altitude close to the sea. The misty fog from the mountains in the mornings keeps the tea bushes cooler, which is good for the quality of the tea.

Here you can meet some of the local tea farmers who produce their own tea in immaculate, small production facilities. You can also visit the Boseong Korean Tea Museum, which gives great insights into Korean tea.

Hadong

Hadong lays claim to being the oldest tea growing region, where the original tea seeds were planted at Mt Jiri. It is recognized as the birthplace of Korean tea. Hadong remains one of the most important tea-producing areas with natural conditions for tea cultivation.

The landscape here is very different to Boseong, with a natural landscape of rocky outcrops and wild tea trees. Here most tea produced is roasted green tea, which has a distinctive characteristic.

Both Boseong and Hadong boast excellent research centers, which have been established to support development of the tea industry and improve quality as well as develop new concepts incorporating tea and tea production.

Jeonnam

Located in Jeollanam in the northern most boundary, this territory has a cooler climate and is very suited to the production of powdered green tea and matcha ("garucha" in Korean). The tea bushes are shaded for two months, which helps to create a vibrant green tea powder exactly like matcha, relatively unknown outside of Korea.

Jeju Island

Located off the south coast of Korea, Jeju Island is recognized as a World Natural heritage site and is famous for its fresh air, clean water, and natural beauty.

Jeju green tea is delicious and produced using both traditional Korean techniques as well as modern technology. Jeju Island is also the home of Osolluc Korea’s leading premium tea brand, who not only operates exclusive tea houses and the Tea Museum on Jeju, but is a leader in innovation.

 

Types of Korean tea

Korea produces mainly green tea, including jeoncha (sencha style) and matcha. The four main Korean green teas are:

Woojeon

This is known as Ujeon and means “before rain." It is a very special grade of tea, is the first picking of the season, and is produced from only buds. It has a fresh, nutty flavor, marine aroma, and bright jade green liquor.

Saejak 

A delicate pluck that consists of the bud and first two leaves. It is the first flush harvested after the spring rains. It is aromatic and has a vegetal flavor with a hint of marine.

Joonjak 

Also known as "sparrow’s beak," Joonjak is the second flush. The bright, golden, steeped liquor has an aroma of fruit, seaweed, and ocean air, and a sweet, lingering finish.

Daejak

This tea is picked during the summer. The leaves are fully grown and usually machine harvested. This is a beautiful drinking green tea.

Korea also produces oolong, black tea, yellow tea, and fermented teas. The two types of fermented teas are:

Dokcha

This is a rare, traditional, artisan Korean tea made by steaming the fresh tea leaves, pounding them, and shaping them into small cakes or coin shapes. They are then stored for months or years. The tea can be roasted on both sides before infusing and then it is boiled.

dokcha tea
A rare, fermented tea called Dokcha. 

Yuzu Fermented Tea

Yuzu Byungcha is where they take a yuzu, hollow it out, and fill it with Korean black tea. It is then steamed and dried several times. This is broken into pieces using the tea and part of the skin, which creates a citrusy, mellow black infusion.

There is so much to learn about Korean teas, and World Tea Academy will shortly be launching the Korean Specialty Tea Course as part of our specialty tea education modules. World Tea Academy also recently launched our Vietnamese Specialty tea course, so please follow the link to experience our comprehensive tea education on Vietnam. Not only do you become deeply immersed in Vietnamese Tea, the course also includes a tasting collection of some of the rare specialty Vietnamese teas produced.

Plus, don't miss the conference session at World Tea Expo on Korean Tea, which will be held Tuesday, March 24 from 11:30 am-12:30 pm.  Titled "K-Tea Culture: Korean Tea, the Hidden Gem of Asia," the session will explore how Korean tea has evolved from royal rituals to inspire a new generation. Get your conference pass today at Early Bird prices!

 

To book your sponsorship or exhibit space at World Tea Expo, or to inquire about advertising and sponsorship opportunities at World Tea News, contact:

Ellainy Karaboitis-Christopoulos, Business Development Manager, Questex

Phone: +1-212-895-8493; Email: [email protected]

Looking for professional tea education, certifications, and more? Visit World Tea Academy and register for courses today!

Also, be sure to stay connected with World Tea Expo on social media for details and insights about the event. Follow us on XFacebookInstagram and LinkedIn.

Looking for professional tea education, certifications, and more? Visit World Tea Academy and register for courses today!

Also, be sure to stay connected with World Tea Expo on social media for details and insights about the event. Follow us on XFacebookInstagram and LinkedIn.