A Quiet Entrance to the Way of Tea

SANTA CRUZ, Calif. In what sounds like the beginning of a Zen story, David Wright found himself in the remote Chinese province of Yunnan with his mentor, tea master Wang Ming Yi. Wright’s interest in tea was longstanding: He and his wife, Marilee, had been selling tea at festivals for years, and they had opened a very small tea shop called Chaikhana Tea Culture. But a friend introduced him to the revered master, whose San Francisco “secret tea retreat” was legendary in the Chinese tea community, and Wright began a journey that resulted in the teahouse now known as Hidden Peak.

During this journey, Wright continued his education in the study of shou and sheng puer, which are now Hidden Peak’s specialty, and the reason many visitors become part of the tea community Wright has fostered. Those new to aged (and other) teas can taste examples from the extensive menu at the “sampling counter,” which also serves as the teahouse’s checkout space. In addition to puer teas, the teahouse also serves black, green, white, oolong, and  herbal infusions, all, says Wright, are organic and handmade. As with wine, prices reflect the rarity of these examples: Very rare and prized Sheng Panchen Lama ($75), Shou 7572/2007 ($19), black Two Leaf Black ($6.50), green Himalayan Chi ($9), white Silver Needle Supreme ($7), oolong Ben Shan ($5.50), flowers & buds Old Tree Flower ($9.50) and herbal infusion Chrysanthemum Flower ($3.50).

Tea drinkers choose from tea by the glass, tea pot with strainer, gaiwan and Hidden Peak’s specialty, a full Gung Fu cha, in which a staff member will assist. The tea glass choice is $1.99. For other choices, an individual serving price is listed on the menu. For those who order the Gung Fu cha and share with a group, one cup is included and there is a $5 charge for each additional cup. A simple snack food menu is available.  Wright notes that he does not feature anything with either garlic or onions, as he feels this masks the full flavor of the teas. Tea drinkers distribute themselves throughout the teahouse and on the patio outside, the Gung Fu drinkers at the beautiful tea tables, which the shop also sells. The retail shop sells selected teas in sizes and prices, ranging from a premium per mini tuocha ($3) to 250g of Sheng Panchen Lama ($500). These are complemented by a diverse offering of tea service items (including some antique services), Asian antiques and curios. Wright offers two-hour “Tea Talks” every other Sunday, during which he demonstrates the "artless art" of Gung Fu cha and speaks on tea history and appreciation from multiple perspectives.

Asked about tea training for staff, Wright gives an unexpected answer. “I don’t have a formal training program,” he says. “I look for a thirst to learn and start them on a self-guided tour.” He does instruct new staff, “If someone asks a question, and you don’t know the answer, don’t be afraid to say you don’t know, and then either ask me or go and look it up for them” (in the many books on tea available in the shop). He encourages staff to think of customers as guests, and treat them accordingly. Hidden Peak stands apart in another significant way: It is a “digital free” environment. Cell phones, iPods, pads and laptops are not allowed. Even the music that plays softly in the background comes from vinyl records. The only exception is at the counter, where modern technology processes customers’ payments.

While this might sound like a recipe for disaster, especially in an area that has become a de facto bedroom community for the Silicon Valley, the reverse has proved to be true. Wright refers to it as “digital detox” and predicts it will become more and more necessary and sought after. But “library silence” is not enforced. Tea drinkers chat quietly, children are welcome, and Wright mentions that a wedding was held at Hidden Peak for two people who met in the teahouse. As the website points out: “People actually meet, share, talk, drink, read, play—without giving priority to a machine over the living, breathing human in front of them. Imagine that.” Hidden Peak Teahouse 1541-C Pacific Ave. Santa Cruz, Calif. (831) 423-4200 hiddenpeakteahouse.com