Darjeeling growers are anticipating the most lucrative first flush in decades.
Tea estates average 35 percent of their annual gross and some earn nearly 70 percent of their revenue during the first flush. This year looks like it will be one of the best harvests in years. Volumes are small but rates per kilo for certified organic, and biodynamic specialty teas are priced as much as 10-times greater than India's other teas.
On a visit to Darjeeling last month West Bengal Chief Minister Mamata Banerjee said demand is still high and that exports could generate $80 million for local growers. She warned that total could plummet by half if the harvest is interrupted: "Do not destroy the biggest asset of the hills, Darjeeling tea is India's pride, let us retain that pride in world markets," she said.
Weed removal, pruning, and garden maintenance that are normally performed over several months were hurried but completed during the winter dormancy. Weeding and intense pruning left great quantities of biomass to improve the soil. Sunny winter days accelerated leaf production, warm humid breezes followed a five-month lull in rainfall. Early rains awakened the trees, restoring the natural rhythm, following two years of erratic weather.
Dry winters the past couple of years led to yields under 8.5 million kilos. Last year, due to the loss of the second and subsequent harvests, Darjeeling produced less than 8 million kilos, well below highs that previously reached 10 million kilos. "Inadequate moisture in air and soil is a major hindrance for the growth of fresh leave. Adequate rainfall during this season is too important for proper first flush yield and thus physical as well as the economic health of a plantation," tea scientist Dr. S. E. Kabeer told the Economic Times.
Only a dribble of teas arrived at retail this week with the largest shipments scheduled for late March.
Improved taste
Tea made from a small-scale winter plucking suggests the plants benefitted as they lay idle. In December Makaibari Tea Estate, the oldest in Darjeeling, processed 10 kilos of "Yule Flush" as the last tea of the 2017 harvest. The tea was widely praised and hints at an outstanding flush. The certified organic, biodynamic tea sold for INRs19,363 ($302) per kilo to a Japanese buyer. Anupa Mueller, founder of Eco-Prima and a buyer of Makaibari and other teas describes a good first flush: "The first flush yields a sharp, clear, slightly astringent tea with a pine note. Tasters describe a greener tea that is light gold than the more widely available second flush.” Second-flush Darjeeling yields a light-colored, medium body amber liquor with a floral aroma and a musky spiciness labeled muscatel. Tasters describe a brisk, flowery, round, mellow, and sparkling tea that connoisseurs crave, she said. “The winey note is more associated with the second flush,” she said. Rajiv Lochan, the principal at Lochan Tea Limited, explains that the "new teas are better this year than in past years. Physiological and chemical reactions did such complex wonders to the tea bush because of the long rest period. We are expecting wonderful teas," says Lochan, a veteran planter in Darjeeling. "The weather god also played its part with Darjeeling Hills witnessing a spell of deep chill this winter with minimum temperatures descending much below the usual level in many places. The hills also witnessed rain during January, which experts say is best for the teas," he said. Yields should return to previous levels according to K. Mintri, a veteran planter and chairman of the Terai Indian Planters Association. He told the Economic Times "We are expecting favorable output right at the onset as overall monsoon remained in our favour."Pricing
Sellers negotiating private deals are always hesitant to disclose exact prices but a combination of pent-up demand and assurances that the harvest will proceed unhindered by disgruntled workers has restored a sense of business-as-usual in the Darjeeling hills. Barring labor unrest, it does not appear wholesale prices will be out of line from past years. Darjeeling (DJ1) ranges in price from $60 to $200 per kilo. Labor disruptions from June through September were a setback but did not bankrupt gardens. Currency fluctuations are a minor factor. Tea for export is priced in US dollars which fell 10 percent in 2017 on a trade weighted basis. India rupees now trade at INRs 65 per $1. Nathmulls, a specialty retailer in Darjeeling, has been selling first-flush teas since 1931. This year's spring specialty Darjeeling (first flush) is priced from $33.50 per 100 grams ($3.35 per gram). The company website lists a wild spring Darjeeling white tea (first flush) priced at $32.50 per 100 grams ($3.25 per gram). Purchasing 500 grams reduces the cost to around $3 per gram. This makes the retail per kilo rate $300 (INRs 20,000). Retailers markup the wholesale price of tea by at least 150 percent, and more typically 200 percent for early teas. Nathmulls described a "fine, very early first flush" from Glenburn Tea Estate as "possessing a refreshing flavor aroma of spring flowers with mild fruitiness and slight vegetal notes." Another "slightly astringent" white tea with "rich fruity notes and a mildly sweet finish" was a first flush processed at the Rohini Tea Estate. Here is a sampling of typical wholesale prices for this year's first flush:- Jungpana Spring Delight - $250/kg
- Rohini Jethi Kupi - $180/kg
- Glenburn Moonshine - $170/kg
- Selim Hill FTGFOP1 - $145/kg
- Giddapahar SFTGFOP1 - $125/kg
- Goomtee Spring oolong - $120/kg
- Glenburn Moonshine White: INRs3,099 $47.50/100 grams
- Goomtee Musctel Black: INRs2,499 $38.50/100 grams